Day 14 Recoleta

Day 14 - Feral Cats and Dogs, Graves, and more religious iconography than you can shake a stick at.

I woke up today and no one was home, so I decided to visit Recoleta; home of the famous cemetery where so many important Argentine historical figures rest. I decided to walk it, although it is far, and I had only a minimal idea of where it was. I just got the general direction from a map and started heading that way.
Walking some 50 odd Argentine blocks (there and back) is no joke, they are really long (100 meters each, maybe?). Anyway, I made it without incident, after homing in on the cemetery, and then having to walk entirely around it to find the entrance, turns out it was mere meters from where I first started. It was worth it, as this was on the way

After finally making it into the cemetery I was immediately asked if I wanted a map (the whole place is a maze) for 4 pesos. But I decided to continue with the day's mapless theme, so I declined.
I wandered where ever I felt like, spending my time creeping around in the uninhabited section near the wall.
About halfway through I also found an unofficial guide, who probably knows the cemetery better then anyone.

This is him, the undisputed feral king of the cemetery. The rest of the feral residents were cats whose organization was tenuous at best. Had they tribed up they could have taken him.
Anyway he was more than happy to show me around and even ended his tour near Evita Peron's grave just like the real guide.

Many of the crypts had broken windows with gaps big enough to stick a camera through

And this one didn't have a door at all, I could have just walked downstairs (under the flap).

Other interesting graves:









Good damn day.

Day 13 San Telmo

Day 13 - San Telmo: Hangovers, markets, amazing clothes, and big knifes.

It hurt to get up today.
But we had planned to go to this market that happens every Sunday in San Telmo, which is really more like a street fair that goes on for 10 or so blocks. This place probably had the wierdest, most amazing stuff i have seen yet. It was also the most expensive, go figure. Extravagant Mate gourds, knifes, cut and sewn clothes, all kinds of street performers, gaucho leather and accessories, seltzer bottles, the list goes on and on.
Photo note: credit goes to my dad for the majority of these pictures. I wasn't feeling real photoy today.
Anyway, heres the street it takes place on.

and some the products/performers:












Two things of interest, this big knife (200 pesos)

And this store, which had all these collared work shirts, and blazers with pieces of mega-bright Latino and American imagery cut from other clothes. Each one was unique, and what fascinated me is they are exactly the kind of thing I would make if I could sew.

This jacket wasn't my favorite. And this one was more conservative than the others, which were intense, I will try to find a website. Taking a picture is cheaper than buying it. Especially when it cost 600 pesos. The knife however I would have bought on the spot if I had the cash.


Another photo my dad took, dramatic angle.

dammit, it needs to be straghtened just a bit.

ther.


I think tonight I felt my first touch of homesickness. Friends and that fresh Portland green air. and curtains.

Day 12 Congreso

Day 12 Smoked In, Brazilian Dancers, Vodka, and Culture Difference. (4/20/08)

I spent the day inside, all day. This was due to the oppressive smoke cloud that hung over the entire city. Buenos Aires usually is usually crackling with noise all hours of the day and night, today it was a ghost town.

God I hope they put those fires out soon, all 300 of them.

Fortunately, the wind shifted about 10:00 PM and within a few hours it was clear again. Martin and Seba invited us over for dinner. Martin cooked steak his mom sent him from his home province of Olavarria, which is renowned for its beef. It was excellent. Pictured is my mother and father, me, Martin, Sebastian, and his girlfriend, Maria.

After dinner we went to Marota's house for some drinks and to rendezvous with his friends before we went to the disco.

Left to Right: Martin, Frederico, Marota, and in front: Antonella.
We went to a Brazilian Disco, downstairs they had Brazilian dancers who Martin was obsessing over and upstairs they played Cumbia.

They dance very differently from their American counterparts. The standard dance is with a girl, joined at the hands, with lots of twirls and hip wiggling. Antonella tried to teach my stupid American ass to the best of her ability. I think I didn't make a complete fool of myself, but I was pretty wasted by the end of the night so I have no idea. She was gorgeous, just like 90% of all Argentine women, maybe its something in the beef.

Wow i just realized the date when this happened now (?), it didn't even occur to me all day, nor did it have anything to do with the title.

Day 11 Santa Fe

Day 11 - Shopping and Pubs

Today was pretty mellow. I spent most of it shopping with my mother, who has the most complex requirements for a pair of pants I have ever seen. I got some Gaucho wear (Argentine Cowboys). We also went to a bookstore that was converted from a cinema.




Martin and I went to his friends house for dinner, Juan. A very funny and pleasant childhood schoolmate of his, who also happened to have a very pimping lobby. We talked about Argentine politics and the sheer stupidity of the Argentine President, which seems about on par with Bush.


Then we went to Recoleta to meet with another friend of his; Frederico, who owns a rarity among young people in BsAs: a car.

We drove over to Plaza Serrano, which I didn't recognize at all, because by day it is a bustling market surrounding by clothing stores. The market had been replaced by a huge outdoor seating area and all the clothing stores had been converted into pubs and discos. Apparently they do this every night. It was a pretty mellow night and we were only out until about 4 in the morning. Marting kept obsessing with this Portuguese girl at the next table, apparently he has a thing for them.

Day 10 Palermo Lakes

Day 10 - Interesting Cars, Manicured Parks, Protests, and Smoke, lots of smoke.

Today I don't feel like writing as much, to compensate, I made the pictures larger.

Around the embassy area there were many cars that appeal to my aesthetic of what makes a car. Bold straight lines with a few curves for balance + plus rugged utilitarian functionality.

Police Truck


Ranchero


Jeep Ika


Plus finally! I found one. This has to be the only Subaru not made in 2008 in all of Buenos Aires.


Subway Shrine to mother Mary.

Then we reached the park proper. Did I mention we were headed for a park? A few acres of manicured lawns, these arch things, ornate bridges, geese, paddle boats, and signs informing you of the multitudes of park rules; which, of course, were largely ignored.











The white ones are always the meanest.



Later I was awakened from a nap by the sound clapping and car horns. Protesters were demonstrating on Callao, rerouting 4 lanes of one way traffic down our little street.



Every time the wind dies the smoke starts building up. This happens at night. You can see the difference between 10:30 above, and 2:30 below.

It is so bad at night, that the nightlife is being affected. Normally there are a lot more people on the sidewalks here as every one is on their way to the club at this time.

Day 9 Ecological Preserve

Day 9 (4/16/08) Ecological Preserve.


Today I went back to the ecological preserve after Monday's aborted attempt. This is a map of it. The north side is a beach of the Rio de Plata, which is more like a huge bay than a river. Over 4 miles of Trails crisscross the preserve.


They have a vet here for rehabilitating injured wildlife and re-releasing them into the wild.


Monarch butterflies are everywhere, feeding on these succulent little flowers.


Sorry I am no botanist, so I can't tell you the names of any of these species.

This tree was covered with these tiny spikes and had these beautiful pink flowers.

These ones.


Another one of the many beautiful flowers that dot the preserve.


The entire preserve actually used to be an old landfill, until the native plants took over. You can still see this fill material on the "beach".

Twisted remains of pretty much everything.

Some of the material has been out to sea and redeposited, with new additions.

This beach was filled with little pieces of treasure, probably the most interesting beach I have ever had the pleasure of combing. After my pockets started bulging from the weight I decided to just take a picture of my finds instead and leave them there(much lighter).

I also found some sort of 3 inch tusk from god knows what. That I kept, but no picture. If I lived here I think I would spend my days as some hermit sculptor, living on the beach and constructing huge figures from the rubble.
In keeping with my endless fascination with decay:

This is a decommissioned power station inside the preserve, the tractor looks to be still used however.

At the base of the old park, people have constructed crude homes for themselves.

Argentina has statues everywhere, but this horse takes the cake for twistedness.

After exiting the park, I ate at this Parrilla. These little stands have a wood burning BBQ and make some of the best sandwiches I have ever had. Note the picture of Scooby Doo on the side.



You can also see the smoke from that goddamn fire starting to roll in, that is not pollution.

That night it got really bad, the news called it "noche del humo" the night of smoke. The death toll from accidents due to low visibility is up to 8 people.